24. Italy: Trieste

Where to start… Probably over a decade ago when the whole idea of this trip came about. In its first iteration it was Marseille Corsica Sardinia Sicily foot of Italy Greece Western Balkans Trieste. Trieste was always the end point. We rapidly realised that the two months that we had off would be wasted racing from place to place. The Western Balkans were the least accessible by train ferry train ferry combo so we decided to spend the most time there. But somehow Trieste always remained the end point.

So to Trieste we go. The suburbs are endless and grotty and dual carriageway which then gives way to crazy cycle routing. Eventually we arrive on the waterfront of this special city.

I won’t write anything more about Trieste. It’s ace. Jan Morris writes very well if somewhat floridly about it.

We spend three nights staying in a man called Ivo’s grandfather’s flat. It’s very special.

Ivo recommends some places to eat. This is stage two of Rosemary and Clive’s Christmas treat meal out. We eat one night one of the top 5 meals I’ve ever eaten in a non fancy very busy very delicious Trattoria. I still want to be Italian in my next life.

It’s all ace.